World class snorkeling for the cost of a coffee
Location: Kep, Cambodia
Off the southern coast of Cambodia, hidden in plain sight just west of Rabbit Island, lies an undisturbed coral reef with vibrant marine life.
Rabbit Island, known to locals as Koh Tonsay, is one of several islands situated between Cambodia and Vietnam in the South China Sea. From the mainland you can see it, rising from the choppy waves with rich green overgrowth. Rustic bungalows nestle in the mango trees, and a few disheveled chickens wander underfoot. From the island boat dock, it's a gentle trek through the jungle along a dirt path, cutting past small stilted homesteads, until you reach the West side of the island. We walked until the shoreline ended at some rocky outcroppings and more untamed jungle, and asked if there was a room available.
The owner of the bungalow where we were staying didn't have snorkeling gear to rent out – he seemed to think other sections of beach were more exciting than his seaside view – so we went to the neighboring bungalow to rent gear. We paid the tourist price-- $2 each (locals pay just $1). There was nothing so formal as a guided expedition, or the need for a boat to take us out into the deep water. We moseyed back to our own beach, past a group of novice Buddhist monks playing a game of volleyball.
I'm not sure what I was expecting when I smushed my nose under the snorkeling mask and waded into the sandy waters. We'd been watching crabs dig burrows in the sand all morning, and I'd seen a few schools of tiny fish dart past my legs as I swam close to the beach, but I was unprepared for the colorful, thriving coral which stretched just underneath my feet, mere meters from the shoreline.
As we swam out from the rocky outcropping on the south end of the beach, a beautiful section of untouched reef rose underneath us. The top of the reef was close below the surface of the water-- a careless leg could have touched it. We spent hours hovering over the reef, tracing it along the coastline and out to the break. Brilliant blues, yellows, and muted reds, browns and whites undulated on the seafloor. Bright blue crabs skittered between the rocks, and we watched a feeding frenzy of fish on one of the coral.
Why Cambodia?
Cambodia was recently listed as one of the top destinations in the world. Perhaps you've heard of it -- the iconic temples of Angkor Wat; the dark recent past of civil war and genocide. Maybe you've even heard of the beaches of Sihanoukville, or the elephants in Mondulkiri. Yet Rabbit Island has managed to remain on the quiet sidelines. It is known to the locals as a weekend hangout spot, but few foreigners (or even big-city Khmer) take advantage of the charm and plentiful nature the island holds. And at the cost of a fancy coffee!
How to get there:
Kep is a 4 hour drive from Phnom Penh, along comfortably paved roads. From Kep, head to the boat dock and pay the $25 round-trip boat ticket for a boat holding up to 8 people. Tell the driver you’re spending the night on the island, and arrange a time for next-day pickup.
The boat takes 40 minutes across the small but choppy waters, and life jackets are available. From the landing dock, head straight towards the jungle and follow a small dirt path until it ends at the beach. Follow the coast until you discover a bungalow of your liking – just $10/night to rent! Ask your bungalow owner for hints on where to get snorkeling gear, and if you see monks playing ball – please remember to keep a respectful distance and cover your swimsuit with a shirt and shorts!